I've always wanted to visit the Dry Tortugas which lie about 70 nautical miles west of Key West in the Gulf of Mexico. The islands are only accessible by boat or seaplane and there are limited resources on the islands. I got my chance to visit the islands though by being asked to go and help establish a coral nursery there with The Nature Conservancy who coordinates the stimulus funding which pays for my nursery in BNP. I was supposed to go visit in March, but bad weather canceled that trip, so I was excited to finally get the opportunity to go.

The Dry Tortugas are a seven mile long archipelago of seven low lying islands and sand banks. It holds some of the healthiest coral reefs remaining off North American shores and is part of the 101 square mile Dry Tortugas National Park. Only 40 acres of the park is actually above water consisting of Garden Key (where Fort Jefferson is located), Bush Key and Long Key, which are important nesting islands for a variety of seabirds, Loggerhead Key, which houses a still functioning lighthouse completed in 1858, Hospital Key and East Key.

Spanish explorer Juan Ponce de León first dropped anchor in the Dry Tortugas in 1513. He named the islands "las tortugas', which means "the turtles" the islands after the abundance of sea turtles seen occupying the surrounding waters. For the next three centuries, pirates relied on the turtles for meat and eggs and raided the nests of roosting sooty and noddy terns on Bush Key. The islands were the site of over 200 ship wrecks which promoted the building of the first lighthouse on Garden Key in 1825 to alert sailors of surrounding reefs and shoals. Nautical charts warned that the Tortugas were "dry," because of the lack of fresh water.

Fort Jefferson (photo from Wikipedia)
In 1846, U.S. Army strategists were concerned that hostile nations could disrupt shipping lanes in the Gulf of Mexico. As a result, they decided to build a 450-gun, 2,000-man fort on Garden Key. The intimidating bulk of the 50-foot-high (15-meter-high), three-level hexagon, whose 2,000 archways run half a mile (0.8 kilometers) around, spared it from ever having to fire a shot in anger.
We hitched a ride on the Fort Jefferson- the National Park Service supply boat for the Dry Tortugas. It was a bumpy ride!
We towed a whaler over for the National Park Service...the conditions were a little rough for the job and when we were almost to the fort, the bridle broke and the whaler was set free. Luckily the captain saw it happen and they were able to turn around and retrieve it rather easily!
My first view of the fort!
The dock at Garden Key.
Sand spit on Bush Key. This view reminded me of the NWHI! Beautiful water!
The fort was pretty impressive....the moat was really cool!
Doug Morrison and Cory Walters helping load our gear!
Another shot of the Fort Jefferson leaving the dock.
The bridge entrance to the fort.
This lighthouse, built in 1876, is a replica of the original lighthouse erected on Garden Key. The functioning lighthouse is now located on Loggerhead Key.
Our living quarters....much nicer than what I was expecting. In my mind, we would be staying in dark rooms with brick walls and limited amenities. However, they dry walled in two apartments to accommodate visiting scientists while conducting research around the Dry Tortugas. Complete with all modern conveniences except for a working can opener!
Our bunk room....complete with trap door in the ceiling (rumored to be how the local ghost....Howlie....gets in)!
View of the yard in the center of the fort.
There is a walking tour....Cory and Meaghan showed me around!
Cannon balls.
View from one of the embrasures where the large guns were mounted.
Feeling nervous walking over the bridge into the fort? You should....once there were up to 16 cannons pointed directly at you!
One of the cannons guarding the fort entrance.
Another view of the yard showing the ammo magazine with the curved roof.
There are still some pretty cool original artifacts left at the fort like this wagon.
View from the yard.
The gunpowder magazine and cactus. The magazine was specifically designed to help protect the ammo from the hot and humid tropical climate while the cactus reflects the dry 'desert island' character of the island.
Remaining ruins of some of the barracks and living quarters of the fort.
The bakery. Food was apparently scarce on the island and the soldiers and prisoners were usually on the brink of scurvy. One plant, a native succulent, was found to be edible and high in Vitamin C. Yum!
View of the moat. Lots of cool fish and occasionally a turtle end up in here. Don't worry....they can get in and out through openings at the bottom of the moat wall.
I loved all of the arches running through the fort.
I didn't love knowing that there were scorpions on the island though. Luckily, this one was dead!
A view from the top.
This shot gives you an idea of how big the fort actually is. It's a 1/2 mile walk all the way around.
A replica of one of the large Rodman guns located around the top of the fort. Six 15 inch Rodman guns were placed at Fort Jefferson. Each gun weighs about 50,000 lbs and it took 12 men to load the shot and shell into the gun. The range of this gun was 5,018 yards and was used exclusively for seacoast fortifications. Pretty cool.
I loved this tree!
View of the lighthouse and bay cedar trees in the yard.
The fort remained in Federal hands throughout the Civil War. While being used to protect shipping routes through the Gulf of Mexico, the fort was also used as a prison. The great majority of prisoners at Fort Jefferson were Army privates found guilty of desertion while civilian prisoners convicted of robbery were also sent to Fort Jefferson. In July 1865, Dr. Samuel Mudd, who was convicted of conspiracy in Abraham Lincoln's murder after he (unknowingly, he claimed) set the broken leg of fugitive assassin John Wilkes Booth, was imprisoned at Fort Jefferson. He served four years before being pardoned by President Andrew Johnson for his dedicated medical care during a yellow fever epidemic at the fort in 1867.
Dr. Mudd's cell.
For a jail cell, I thought he had a pretty good view!
By 1888, the military usefulness of Fort Jefferson had disappeared, and the cost of maintaining the fort due to the effects of frequent hurricanes and the corrosive and debilitating tropical climate could no longer be justified. In 1888, the Army turned the fort over to the Marine Hospital Service to be operated as a quarantine station and served as a Navy coaling station beginning in 1898. The fort was permanently abandoned for military purposes in 1907. On April 6, 1908, Theodore Roosevelt created Tortugas Keys Reservation which set the islands aside as a native bird refuge and in 1935, President Franklin D. Roosevelt signed the papers naming the site Fort Jefferson National Monument. On October 26, 1992 the Dry Tortugas, including Fort Jefferson, was established as a National Park.
Cory and Meaghan check out the view from the top of the terraplein.
Great shot of the moat!
One cool thing about the fort is that it still has it's cultural integrity. There aren't lots of railings or other distractions from the way the fort originally was. There are, however, strategically placed signs reminding you that it's possible to fall off the fort!
Possibly the world's best place to watch the sunset. This is the view right outside our living quarters. Perfectly framed with the sun setting right next to the lighthouse.
What a view!
The docks in the morning.
View of the fort's lighthouse.
So, the purpose of our trip was to move the nursery from it's current location to a more protected site near the fort. The nursery was set up last summer, but when Meaghan went in March to populate the nursery with coral fragments, winter weather was sending 8 foot roller waves over the nursery site making conditions unworkable.
Our mission, which we chose to accept, was to find a new spot for the nursery which would protect it from the winter weather and make the nursery accessible year round. Meaghan and Cory discussing the nursery underwater. Gotta love underwater slates and hand gestures!
Making decisions underwater. What to do, what to do!
Cory is ready for action!
The lighthouse of Loggerhead Key is run by volunteers. They have a one month post and there is a really long waiting list to get the position- up to two years!!
Cory and Meaghan snorkel around to find the best location for the nursery.
The crew: me, Cory and Meaghan.
Cory and Meaghan love their swim vests!
Sunset on Day 2!
My favorite sunset of the trip! Notice the strategically placed frigate birds!
Beautiful!
Just to show that it wasn't all play and no work....here's one of the newly moved nursery platforms. The blocks are cable tied to a piece of rebar which has been pounded into the substrate. A piece of PVC is placed over the rebar to help protect the blocks from fish, sharks and turtles which may swim by the blocks and potentially knock over the fragments. Oddly, yes, it does happen!
Our precisely placed row of 10 nursery platforms!
Here's Cory "running" underwater. When we are moving the blocks around, it's easier to take off your fins and simply walk around. Makes you feel a bit like a astronaut!
Ding dong, the witch is dead! Just kidding. Cory placed her fins inside one of the blocks to keep them from floating away. I thought it looked like a scene out of the Wizard of Oz!!
Although not exactly allowed by the NPS, it was necessary for Meaghan to go swimming in the moat to retrieve Doug's shorts which blew off the deck near our living quarters.
Mission accomplished!
Now for the tricky part of getting out!
Bucket list item # 32: swim in a moat and scale a fort's wall.....Check!
One of our favorite parts of the day was dinner! Looks like we made chili for about 100 people!
Dinner on the deck........
......Watching the sunset!!!
Sunset # 3 in the Dry Tortugas!
I've got the whole lighthouse....in my hand!
We liked to take walks at night around the moat. Here's the fort at dusk!
Watch out for ghosts though....and that weird bench with the chains on it! It's rumored that ghosts do actually haunt the fort.....
A day on the beach. We got to spend a little time goofing off on Friday while we waited to board the ferry home.
So, we went snorkeling around the fort!
Artifacts underwater- great places to see cool fish.
Like this spotted chub.
There were some really large brain corals growing on the fort walls!
One of the corner bastions- large projections designed to allow defensive fire along the faces of the walls they joined. There was a bastion at each corner of the fort which has six walls.
The seaplane taking off!
One of the biggest mutton snappers I have ever seen!
And manatees....oh, wait. That's a tourist!
Smile!
A cute squid we found during our snorkel.
Waves from below.
A baby barracuda!
Here's to a job well done....we survived!
We took the tourist ferry back to Key West on Friday afternoon...once again in really rough conditions. Many of the passengers had to make the trip out to the back of the boat due to seasickness. We arrived in Key West and stopped to have a celebratory beverage and then dinner at The Cafe...yummy mozzarella pesto sandwich! It was a tiring trip, but lots of fun too! I'm hoping to be invited back for the trip in December to populate the nursery...this time it will be from a live-aboard boat!